'Made in France' - Cartier's Tutti Frutti jewel
An important emerald, ruby, sapphire and diamond Tutti Frutti brooch, Cartier, Paris, circa 1930, signed Cartier Paris and numbered, also stamped ‘Made in France’.
Purchased at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 1992, lot 562, and recently re-discovered in a private collection.
This is an outstanding example of Cartier’s highly sought-after and very desirable jewels known as Tutti Frutti, produced in the late 1920s and 1930s.
The central octagonal emerald plaque, probably dating to the 19th century, is carved on both sides with leaves and flowers in the Mughal taste and held in place by diamond-tipped claws. The sapphires, rubies and emeralds in the mount are also carved with foliate motifs, a work probably carried out in Rajasthan. A detail we particularly like is the line of calibré cut sapphires alternating with eight-cut diamonds along the edge of the emerald setting (see illustration below).
In our opinion this brooch is particularly appealing because of its dimension and scale, the vivid colours it displays at night, and the fact that it is not too heavy and therefore highly wearable.
A very rare brooch that could easily be the highlight of any collection of iconic 20th century jewels.
View a video exploration of the brooch here