An unusual and distinctive colour combination

One of the characteristics of Art Deco jewels, together with geometrical design, is vibrant chromatic combinations. However, the unusual and dramatic colours of this brooch, which was created by Cartier in 1926, are probably unique.

Fine gem-set and diamond brooch, Cartier, 1926 | Of buckle design set to the centre with a cluster of seed pearls, further set with buff top calibré-cut and cabochon sapphires, circular-cut coloured and colourless diamonds

The contrast between the lime green, highly fluorescent diamonds and the steely-blue sapphires which may well have been found in the ‘new’ mines of Montana is extremely effective, and is set off by the soft sheen of grey, gold, cream and grey pearls.

The old cushion shape of the diamonds suggests they may have been previously set in a late 19th century jewel, while the calibré sapphires had clearly been clearly cut to fit the mount.  We like the effective detail of the two small sapphires, highlighting the trefoil terminals of the brooch: an elegant touch consistent with the work of a master jeweller.

We can imagine this brooch worn at the hip of the low waited tunic dress fashionable at the time, realised in a fabric of contrasting colour, texture and pattern (see image below).