Throughout the 1920s and 1930s the royal families of India were descending on the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix in Paris to have their traditional jewels remodelled in platinum in the fashionable Art Deco style.
An imposing ruby and diamond necklace, by Mauboussin, Paris 1930
This is a very glamorous and exotic creation by Mauboussin which conjures for us the romantic courts of the Maharajahs which were so much in the public imagination at this time.
Parisian jewellers fell under the spell of Indian jewellery and increasingly included in their designs the luscious berry-like forms of cabochon rubies, sapphires and emeralds so widespread in jewels of the Sub-continent.
We are particularly impressed by this important necklace which is justifiably proud of its Indian antecedents and yet remains very much a product of its age – and a tribute to French Haute Joaillerie of the period.
An important ruby and diamond necklace, Mauboussin, Paris 1930
Of Indian inspiration, composed of articulated sections of polished Burmese ruby beads accented with square-cut diamonds, embellished by geometric scroll spacers set with circular- and baguette-cut diamonds, suspending a graduated fringe of similar design, convertible to form two different lengths, circa 1930, signed Mauboussin Paris, mounted in platinum.
Created on the occasion of the iconic ‘Ruby’ exhibition held in 1930, one of three Mauboussin exhibitions held from 1928-1931, each of which was dedicated to a specific precious stone. Not only were these exhibitions major promotional events for Mauboussin they also boosted the market in general in light of the losses incurred through the Wall Street Crash, 1929. The excitement around the 1930 Ruby exhibition pushed up the price for rubies, many high profile clients attended the event and journalists described the palpable excitement generated by the world’s finest rubies set in modern designs. Many visitors had not previously seen precious stones in an unfacetted form, polished en cabochon and carved into flowers and leaves – as loved by the Maharajahs.
Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity
Cf. Mauboussin, Marguerite de Cerval (published by Editions Du Regard, 1992), p89, for a black and white photograph of this necklace