An antique old-cut diamond fringe tiara

A very classical tiara from the High Victorian Age and a versatile jewel that doubles as a necklace and bracelet.

The design is loosely inspired by the traditional Russian headdress, the kokoshnik, but in style and workmanship it is quintessentially English.

The body of the jewel is in gold rather than the platinum that would become popular in the new century.

This tiara retains a sense of ‘lightness’ which is derived from the use of knife wires in the construction, a technique typical of the end of the 19th century.

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Further details: 

Antique diamond tiara, convertible to a necklace, circa 1880s, the tiara designed as a relatively short compact fringe, of gently tapered form composed of twenty-three knife edge bars each applied with a curved V-shape diamond-set motif and surmounted by an old-cut diamond in claw setting, these are interspersed with shorter bars topped with graduated old-cut diamonds and all are set above a base row of diamonds with alternate stones embellished further by a bezel-set rose-cut diamond above all below, all set in silver and gold and attached to a tiara frame.

When removed from the frame and joined to the diamond set back chain the tiara transforms into a necklace. The back chain is fully set with rose-cut diamonds and can also be worn as a bracelet.

Gemstones and other materials:
376 old-cut and rose-cut diamonds estimated to weigh in total approximately 32cts, the largest central old-cut diamond estimated to weigh approximately 1.6cts | Setting: silver on gold with French assay marks | Dimensions: tiara – 6.5 inches or 165.0mm circumference, 1.2 inches or 30.48mm tall at centre front; bracelet/back chain – 7.5 (190.5mm) or 7 inches (178.00mm) long, and 6.5mm wide; necklace – 14 inches or 35.56cm long


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