The design is loosely inspired by the traditional Russian headdress, the kokoshnik, but in style and workmanship it is quintessentially English.
An antique old-cut diamond fringe tiara
A very classical tiara from the High Victorian Age and a versatile jewel that doubles as a necklace and bracelet.
The body of the jewel is in gold rather than the platinum that would become popular in the new century.
This tiara retains a sense of ‘lightness’ which is derived from the use of knife wires in the construction, a technique typical of the end of the 19th century.
Antique diamond tiara, convertible to a necklace, circa 1880s, the tiara designed as a relatively short compact fringe, of gently tapered form composed of twenty-three knife edge bars each applied with a curved V-shape diamond-set motif and surmounted by an old-cut diamond in claw setting, these are interspersed with shorter bars topped with graduated old-cut diamonds and all are set above a base row of diamonds with alternate stones embellished further by a bezel-set rose-cut diamond above all below, all set in silver and gold and attached to a tiara frame.
When removed from the frame and joined to the diamond set back chain the tiara transforms into a necklace. The back chain is fully set with rose-cut diamonds and can also be worn as a bracelet.
Gemstones and other materials:
376 old-cut and rose-cut diamonds estimated to weigh in total approximately 32cts, the largest central old-cut diamond estimated to weigh approximately 1.6cts | Setting: silver on gold with French assay marks | Dimensions: tiara – 6.5 inches or 165.0mm circumference, 1.2 inches or 30.48mm tall at centre front; bracelet/back chain – 7.5 (190.5mm) or 7 inches (178.00mm) long, and 6.5mm wide; necklace – 14 inches or 35.56cm long
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