One can imagine the jewel was designed around the central cabochon ruby: Belperron would have been attracted to the colour and the brute shape of the stone and has made it the central focus of the brooch, having resisted the temptation to re-cut it.
Ruby, rose quartz and enamel Fleur brooch by Suzanne Belperron, Paris, circa 1936
We are particularly attracted by this bold flower brooch in rose quartz and ruby because it is rather an unusual colour combination in Suzanne Belperron's repertoire and thus rare.
Her use of carved pink quartz for the petals, rather than opting for her customary milky white or stained blue chalcedony, makes this jewel irresistible for any Belperron collector.
At around the time this jewel was created Suzanne Belperron was becoming increasingly well known in her own right. She had resigned from the firm of Maison René Boivin in early 1932 and soon after took up an important role with Bernard Herz where her own creativity was allowed to flourish. As the decade progressed she gained international recognition for her jewels and acquired many high profile and trend-setting clients, notably the Duchess of Windsor and Daisy Fellowes.
A brooch composed of a rose quartz flower head centering a cabochon ruby with black enamel and cabochon ruby pistils; mounted in grey and yellow gold with French assay marks
Maker’s mark for Groené et Darde, box stamped B. Herz
Copy of original drawing
Dimensions: 2 5/8 x 2 5/8 inches / 6.7 x 6.7cm
Belperron Certificate of Authenticity B54203232017 dated March 23, 2017, by Edward J. Landrigan of Verdura stating that the ruby, rose quartz, enamel and gold fleur brooch was made in Paris circa 1936 by B. Herz from a design by Belperron
Corbett, Patricia, et. al. Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron. London, Thames & Hudson, 2015, p.127 (drawing)
Vreeland, Diana. “Why Don’t You…,? Harper’s Bazaar, September 1936, p.82
For further information on the ruby, rose quartz and enamel fleur brooch, by Suzanne Belperron: