A platinum and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 1948

We like a lot this very classical and very chic necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels which is so emblematic of the return to glamour after the austerity imposed by World War II.

The design relies on the interplay of baguettes, brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds, very much in the spirit of the 1930s – rigidly geometric, with very little visible metal.

The emphasis on the imposing fringe front would have complemented the structured necklines of the ‘New Look’ evening gowns of the era.

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, Victoria and Albert Museum, February-September 2019 | Image: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Left: An advertisement from Vogue, December 1941, featuring a marquise diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, accessorising elegant evening wear | Right: A fashion spread for a French magazine featuring a Van Cleef & Arpels marquise diamond necklace on a model wearing a mink by Max Leroy and a hat by Rose Valois, photographed by Seeburger, 1953

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Further details: 
A diamond and platinum necklace with a graduating fringe of nineteen round, baguette and marquise diamonds suspended from a neck chain of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds; mounted in platinum with French assay marks

– 19 marquise-cut diamonds, weighing 19.51 carats
– 140 round diamonds, weighing 16.41 carats
– 100 baguette-cut diamonds, weighing 30.34 carats

Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, stamped 62268 | The setting of each marquise diamond is engraved with the weight of the stone

Length: 15 inches

Certification:
– Gemmological Institute of America Diamond Grading Report no. 6137442415, dated May 27, 2011, stating that the 1.58 carat marquise brilliant is E colour and VS1 clarity
– Gemmological Institute of America Diamond Grading Report no. 2131442411, dated May 27, 2011, stating that the 1.28 carat oval brilliant is F colour and VS2 clarity
– Gemmological Institute of America Diamond Grading Report no. 2131442420, dated May 27, 2011, stating that the 1.71 carat oval brilliant is F colour and VS2 clarity

Literature: 
cf. Vogue, September 15, 1946, p. 182 | cf. Van Cleef & Arpels Joailliers, c. 1948, no. 3

For further information on the diamond and platinum necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: info@understanding-jewellery.com